AMP light stays on

Discussion of STOCK TripMinder®, audio, video, LED, capacitors, instrument clusters and controls, integrated circuitry and boards, low voltage, message center, resistors, speedometers, tachometers, transistors and systems.

AMP light stays on

Postby markvii_chick » Sun Jan 25, 2009 7:24 pm

Hi guys; I'm new to this forum! Anyhow, below is a pic of my big baby which is a 1989 Bill Blass edition. It has a new battery. When bought the car ran like a champ (except for hunting/loping engine idles when driving over 65mph, that's another story further below) but FIRST-

FIRST ISSUE: My brother had replaced the alternator and voltage regulator when the car couldn't keep a charge and lo and behold the AMP light stays on now. Not bright but its noteably 'on'. Not flickers but if you rev the car it'll dim darker (not brighter). The car NEVER did this before these 'repairs'.

Unplug the regulator the AMP light goes off (of course) and when plugged in its back on- figured I'd add that since my brother insists I'd put that here.

I checked the alternator cable connector (the two wires that directly connects to the alternator) and they looked oily and dried out. He cleaned it, the connectors and covered the wire with electrical tape. Still the amp light is on but a little dimmer- which I might have just solved the issue right there but there is no good parts car around here. If any know where I can get a replacement of said wiring/connectors PLEASE PM ME ASAP.

He did the """OLD SCHOOL""" test of unplugging the battery while the car is running and it shuts off now. Before it didn't do this before the alternator went bad, when the car was bought. The car did have the infamous abs issues but was cleared with a simple brake flush :)

SECOND ISSUE: Hunting/bucking. Cold warm or hot, take the big baby over 55-65mph and it bucks and backfires. It does this even when you crank the engine and rev it, it'll IMMEDIATELY backfires. Tried to pull codes, nothing. NOTHING! Weird :eek:

I've researched this here and all over the internet and done everything that was said, still same results. Quick run down of what I've had replaced with all brand new parts: new coolant sensor, full tune up, new distributor and ignition modulator, IAC sensor, switched 1 and 2 sparkplug wires (changed back again because it gotten worst), new MAP sensor (btw if unplugged it doesn't backfire /at all/ but sounds like a big truck and runs rich), checked all hoses no leaks, fuel lines cleaned, fuel pump replaced...that's all I can think of so far.

I will say one thing, after these little hurdles are conquered this car will run like a sewing machine. Thanks to any and all replies :) :) :) :)

Image
PS Please excuse the car's stance, as the guys tell me at work it looks like it's either sitting down like a giant dog or about to take flight :roll: It's already been converted over, its just that the person who had the car before me did a weird hack job in the conversion. Its very bouncy :lol:
User avatar
markvii_chick
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:28 pm
Location: Somewhere in the woods Georgia USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby JoshMcMadMac » Sun Jan 25, 2009 9:38 pm

It sounds like the voltage regulator may be bad, but I suspect the battery may be tired as well. Most parts stores will test it for free for you. Start there.

As for the hunting at idle, make sure the idle is set somewhere between 600-700rpm at idle, warm. Pull codes. It may be a dirty or sticky part.

Please do not ever disconnect the battery while the car is running. Ever. 8-)
2005 LS V8: Stock.

(SOLD 07/09)
1992 Mark VII LSC SE: FR500's, KYB's, Kenny Brown C/C plates, subframe connectors, 4.10's, 190lph fuel pump, smog delete, U/D pulleys, T-5, 3G, Mark VIII fan, adjustable FPR, 70mm MAF, 65mm TB, ported Cobra intakes w/ spacer, ported GT40 heads w/ valve job, 1.72 rockers, XE270hr-14 cam, BBK headers, 2½" exhaust w/ off-road X-pipe.
270hp 305ft.lb.

(SOLD 11/07)
1989 Mark VII BULLITT: Shaved trim, emblems, antenna, trunk latch cover, door handles. 100% custom interior, 35% tint, 17" Bullitts, 1800watt custom audio.
User avatar
JoshMcMadMac
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 1125
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:20 am
Location: Waynesboro, PA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby warwgn » Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:15 pm

Mark VII_Chick,

Welcome to the forums, from F***ing cold Ottawa, Ontario.

Your 89 Bill Blass looks sweet. even with the rare canvas fabric carriage top.. I'd love to see it at the Ford Nationals in June, in Carlisle PA, next to my 90 Bill Blass, with the even rarer landau roof.

As for your amp light, I'll get my brother too read your post. He's a fully licensced mechanic, and looks after everything my car needs..... which coincidently also needs a new alternator. The AMP light on my car came on just 2 miles from home, after a a trip to Montreal. He looked it over and determined that the 6 month old alternator I got from a Pep Boys while vacationing in Philly last August has crapped out. Unfortunately I don't think it's worth driving 400 miles to get my warranty.
Cheers
Doug Corrigan
1990 Bill Blass, Black w/ canavas Landau roof. Mods: 3.08 trac-lock rear end, Draw-Tite Class 1 bumper mount trailer tow hitch.
2003 Ford Explorer Limited. 4.6L V-8. 5spd Auto 3.73 rear 4x4. Class 4 hitch.
Image
User avatar
warwgn
CLUB MEMBER
 
Posts: 1239
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 9:22 am
Location: Ottawa Ontario, Canada

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby junkyardkat » Sun Jan 25, 2009 10:32 pm

I have to agree with Doug, even if you just bought an alternator they still can be bad. Take it back and get a new one.

Also check the cigarette lighters, if there is a penny or anything in them it will drain your battery, alternator just as fast as you put one on.

We bought a car that had this problem and they had a brand new battery, alternator, and a few other things. They couldn't figure out why everything went dead. We were cleaning the car and Art found penny's in the bottom of the lighters. Look real close to make sure there isn't any thing in them.

Oh ya, stop the The Welcome Center and tell us a little bit about yourself.
Kat Bailey
junkyardkat
_______________________________________
chicks pull wrenches too!!!!

Image
http://www.kathyspromotional.com
User avatar
junkyardkat
BOARD MEMBER
 
Posts: 1043
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 1:07 am
Location: Southeast Idaho

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby markvii_chick » Mon Jan 26, 2009 1:24 am

Thanks all!
The voltage regulator was replaced a day after the alternator was put on. The AMP light stayed on ever since the Alternator was put on and it was a Autozone Durulast brand (if that means anything?).

I took my 'big baby' to Autozone to test everything out, the alternator checked to be working correctly but wasn't charging the battery. The guy suggests maybe there's a crimp or cut in the wire and have the entire car charging system rewired (?!!!). Looked over all the wires, everything looks to be fine. Though I will say the connector wire that goes directly onto the alternator did look 'dried/dirty'. I've seen burnt wires before, it didn't appear burnt. The connector about 12inches down from the alternator was SUPER oily from the past 20yrs the car been alive though! Its been cleaned btw.

All fuses checked out fine too.

Oh and the battery Isn't even a month old...but then this is the third battery bought since I've owned the car; this car must REALLY love eating batteries :(

Thanks for the penny warning junkyardkat, I will checked that out the minute the sun comes up! Thanks again!
User avatar
markvii_chick
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:28 pm
Location: Somewhere in the woods Georgia USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby oldschool1 » Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:16 am

Recently my 1984 stopped charging the battery and I coasted into a parking space on the side of a VERY busy Philadelphian street. Six blocks from home, I replaced the battery, the alternator, and the regulator and STILL was not charging the battery. Since it was FRESH OFF THE SHELF with a solid 12.4 volts in it, it provided enough juice to spark the plugs and drive home to the garage.

I found the alternator's charging wire/cable ran down to a common connector below and rearward of the alternator. This connector was tired of carrying 80+ amps through it for over 20 years and decided to ... melt, breaking the circut and not allowing my battery to recharge.

Image

Test continuity of the THICK wire, across this connector. If it's an open circuit then replace/delete the connector. If it's closed then test continuity of the THICK wire between 'below the connector' and back to the starter solenoid.
User avatar
oldschool1
CLUB MEMBER
 
Posts: 8773
Joined: Fri Dec 26, 2008 10:01 pm
Location: Primos, Pennsylvania USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby JoshMcMadMac » Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:40 am

Check your wiring, and any fusible links. Is it not charging at all, or just not enough? Can you get a volt-meter to see what the battery voltage is off, then when running?
2005 LS V8: Stock.

(SOLD 07/09)
1992 Mark VII LSC SE: FR500's, KYB's, Kenny Brown C/C plates, subframe connectors, 4.10's, 190lph fuel pump, smog delete, U/D pulleys, T-5, 3G, Mark VIII fan, adjustable FPR, 70mm MAF, 65mm TB, ported Cobra intakes w/ spacer, ported GT40 heads w/ valve job, 1.72 rockers, XE270hr-14 cam, BBK headers, 2½" exhaust w/ off-road X-pipe.
270hp 305ft.lb.

(SOLD 11/07)
1989 Mark VII BULLITT: Shaved trim, emblems, antenna, trunk latch cover, door handles. 100% custom interior, 35% tint, 17" Bullitts, 1800watt custom audio.
User avatar
JoshMcMadMac
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 1125
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:20 am
Location: Waynesboro, PA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby markvii_chick » Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:31 pm

JoshMcMadMac wrote:Check your wiring, and any fusible links. Is it not charging at all, or just not enough? Can you get a volt-meter to see what the battery voltage is off, then when running?


Its not charging at all but my brother has a volt-meter.
When Autozone did the test with a similar gadget the car was literally running off the battery. It's not charging /at all/ and I'm afraid after I start the car a few more times this battery will be dead too, so the car just sits big shiny and pretty with the battery cables unhooked.
I'll see what my brother says this evening.
User avatar
markvii_chick
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:28 pm
Location: Somewhere in the woods Georgia USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby markvii_chick » Mon Jan 26, 2009 12:35 pm

oldschool1 wrote:Recently my 1984 stopped charging the battery and I coasted into a parking space on the side of a VERY busy Philadelphian street. Six blocks from home, I replaced the battery, the alternator, and the regulator and STILL was not charging the battery. Since it was FRESH OFF THE SHELF with a solid 12.4 volts in it, it provided enough juice to spark the plugs and drive home to the garage.

I found the alternator's charging wire/cable ran down to a common connector below and rearward of the alternator. This connector was tired of carrying 80+ amps through it for over 20 years and decided to ... melt, breaking the circut and not allowing my battery to recharge.

Image

Test continuity of the THICK wire, across this connector. If it's an open circuit then replace/delete the connector. If it's closed then test continuity of the THICK wire between 'below the connector' and back to the starter solenoid.


Will do so today, thanks!
Compared to mine the one in the picture looks darn good, mine was covered in I guess 20yrs of dirt/grime and neglect.
Just in case is there a way I could just replace this one (connector+wiring) part? Or is it best to just rewire it?
Thanks again.
User avatar
markvii_chick
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:28 pm
Location: Somewhere in the woods Georgia USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby K MANIAC » Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:24 pm

markvii_chick wrote:Oh and the battery Isn't even a month old...but then this is the third battery bought since I've owned the car; this car must REALLY love eating batteries.


If you haven't done so already, invest in a battery charger. Yes, a battery can fail completely if drained low, but a very rare occurance. Hopefully you had all your previous batteries tested before you replaced them.
"This car may be old, but it will still climb Kirker Pass at 110!"- quote of the original owner of my green 1964 Chrysler 300-K

Image
Image
1986 Continental
1989 Mark VII Bill Blass (Oxford White)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Pewter Metallic)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Sandstone Metallic)
1/2 of a 1992 Town Car Signature (my guaranteed inheritance)
K MANIAC
BOARD MEMBER
 
Posts: 2323
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:47 am
Location: Concord, California

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby markvii_chick » Mon Jan 26, 2009 3:40 pm

K MANIAC wrote:
markvii_chick wrote:Oh and the battery Isn't even a month old...but then this is the third battery bought since I've owned the car; this car must REALLY love eating batteries.


If you haven't done so already, invest in a battery charger. Yes, a battery can fail completely if drained low, but a very rare occurance. Hopefully you had all your previous batteries tested before you replaced them.


I have every battery tested before replacing them, they were on warranty :)
And you're very correct, when this car ran fine when I first bought it on very rare occurrances it did drain very low.
Thanks for the information everyone, today (it just started drizzling! ARGH!) or tomorrow I will see what I can (excuse me, my BROTHER) do and test out things. He's the mechanic, I'm just a junior-learning-a lot-mechanic.
Keep you all posted!

P.S.
But I AM about to replace the ignition switch. After reading up on those articles I rushed to buy that part.
There's no telling what parasitic electronic gismo could be killing the battery on rare blue moon nights. Moreover I would hate to have the car set on fire or something- experienced that once in another car and I'm still tearing up over that experience. I don't want to go through that again.

P.S.S.
Where in the world is the rear window defroster relay?!!!
That's one item that has /never/ worked in this car since I've owned it.
Thankies!
User avatar
markvii_chick
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:28 pm
Location: Somewhere in the woods Georgia USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby warwgn » Mon Jan 26, 2009 4:02 pm

markvii_chick wrote:Where in the world is the rear window defroster relay?!!!


I think Carmen San Diego stole it out of the car before you bought it, and ran off to some African country with it. :lol:
Cheers
Doug Corrigan
1990 Bill Blass, Black w/ canavas Landau roof. Mods: 3.08 trac-lock rear end, Draw-Tite Class 1 bumper mount trailer tow hitch.
2003 Ford Explorer Limited. 4.6L V-8. 5spd Auto 3.73 rear 4x4. Class 4 hitch.
Image
User avatar
warwgn
CLUB MEMBER
 
Posts: 1239
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 9:22 am
Location: Ottawa Ontario, Canada

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby K MANIAC » Mon Jan 26, 2009 4:09 pm

markvii_chick wrote:I have every battery tested before replacing them, they were on warranty. :)

But I AM about to replace the ignition switch. After reading up on those articles I rushed to buy that part.


Excellent!!! :D By the way, have you checked your throttle valve bushing?? I realize it is not an electrical part and has nothing to do with your "current" issue (pun intended :lol: ), but like the ignition switch, it's one of those items that need inspection and upgrade on the Mark. I'm sure you would be disappointed if you burned up your transmission after correcting the charging problem. :shock:
"This car may be old, but it will still climb Kirker Pass at 110!"- quote of the original owner of my green 1964 Chrysler 300-K

Image
Image
1986 Continental
1989 Mark VII Bill Blass (Oxford White)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Pewter Metallic)
1989 Mark VII LSC (Sandstone Metallic)
1/2 of a 1992 Town Car Signature (my guaranteed inheritance)
K MANIAC
BOARD MEMBER
 
Posts: 2323
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 10:47 am
Location: Concord, California

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby junkyardkat » Mon Jan 26, 2009 4:18 pm

markvii_chick wrote:P.S.S.
Where in the world is the rear window defroster relay?!!!
That's one item that has /never/ worked in this car since I've owned it.
Thankies!


There are 2 places that you might want to check first, here are the pics.

This picture is on the right hand side of the trunk as you are looking at it. it's a ground wire that might be undone. Make sure that both are connected.
Image

This picture is on the other side but doesn't show the exact plug that is behind the carpet that might also be undone. If I remember right it is a light blue, don't quote me on that.
Image

You can click on the pics to make them bigger.

Hope that this helps you out.
Kat Bailey
junkyardkat
_______________________________________
chicks pull wrenches too!!!!

Image
http://www.kathyspromotional.com
User avatar
junkyardkat
BOARD MEMBER
 
Posts: 1043
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 1:07 am
Location: Southeast Idaho

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby Magic Al » Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:30 pm

The alternator is connected to the battery through fuse link "A".

http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/Galler ... .sized.jpg

On my car I ran a redundant line directly from the battery positive post directly to the alternator BAT terminal. There is a fuse link installed @ my battery terminal just in case.

You could temporarily try a jumper to see if it charges. Use a heavy guage wire. If it does, then there is an open circuit between your starter solonoid & alternator.
User avatar
Magic Al
 

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby gadget73 » Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:16 pm

Check to make sure the metal under the voltage regulator is clean. The VR grounds through its mount points, and if its not properly grounded, it does funny things. Also, I'd have that alternator checked to verify its actually good. More than once I've installed brand new defective parts. Its worth a check.
86 Lincoln Town Car, HO swap, big brakes, lots of other stuff
91 LSC SE, triple black, United Exhaust 2.25" exhaust system, ES poly front bushings
User avatar
gadget73
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 3101
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:14 pm
Location: Southern NJ

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby markvii_chick » Wed Jan 28, 2009 9:51 pm

UPDATE:

Got to play around with the car yesterday and here are the findings:
With the car turned off, the battery reads 11 volts and barely registering anything aside from being less than 12 volts :o
Car on, same thing but noticeably declining slowly.

To make sure I or my brother was getting the correct readings far as volts concern, I drove the car to Autozone, they tested the battery and it came back as good. The alternator wasn't putting out hardly anything, which is weird because the alternator isn't even a month old! So the Autozone worker said for me to take out the alternator so they can thoroughly test it, which I can't do until tomorrow (hopefully) because it ran all day today. Voltage regulator tested out good also.

Drove the car back and parked it, minute I turned it off it off the battery was too low to crank the car back on.

NOW here's another tidbit, also yesterday I took the time to replace the ignition switch and yep it had that dreaded gap in it and on the black plug you can tell were it was *about* to warp but didn't. Nothing was cracked or anything though. Caught it JUST in time :shock:

THEN when I cranked the car up (before the Autozone/brother voltage test) the AMP light would come on, but when I revved up the engine it'll go OFF and will stay OFF unless I undo the battery again. AMP light comes on, rev up the engine and poof, it goes back out. Loose or old serpentine belt? Just shooting ideas...

Which brings another thing, if the amp light goes out- why didn't it recharge the lost voltage when I took it to Autozone or done those tests?! Weird too because it sat running for a good while and was able to drive it around (didn't dare to shut it off) and still the battery was nearly dead. If I get a jump the car will run, but charging; no it won't. Clearly a bad alternator symptom, so here we go again.

FIRST THING tomorrow my brother agreed to snatch off the alternator again and have it tested. I will report back with what could be found...CROSS YOUR FINGERS! Maybe all this is just a case of buying bad re-manufactured Duralast crappy Alternators.

Also if it's possible to run a good thick gauge wire from the alternator to the battery with a inline fuse in place, as a last resort if nothing is solved/found. *Sigh* Everyday brings a new lesson....

PS
Anyone here use or have used those re-manufactured 'Cardone' abs brake boosters? Are they any good? I know of two Mark VII's around town who are parked for /months/ because of this. One of which is a pretty LSC that sat for seven months because he gotten the old "replace abs system for $1,500+" excuse from his mechanic.

Lastly is there a trunk release relay? You know to get it to pop open? Push the button and it does nothing...yep fuses are good!
Gotten the window defogger to work (THANKS GUYS!), it wasn't even hooked up!
Sorry for all the questions...
User avatar
markvii_chick
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:28 pm
Location: Somewhere in the woods Georgia USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby gadget73 » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:14 pm

The amp light doesn't always indicate the battery is actually charging. It only indicates that the voltage regulator thinks all is cool with the world. The alternator itself can be dead and that light won't be on. I've experienced it myself on my Towncar, low voltage, no amp light, no charging. The diodes were bad in the alternator, and it was less than 2 years old. I had another one go bad that charged at the proper voltage, but the amp light stayed on. The alt was 2 weeks old. My truck had one fail less than a month old, no lights or other warnings but the voltmeter would twich up and down rapidly instead of holding stable voltage.


What exactly is wrong with your ABS? There are a lot of things that can go wrong that can be fixed without replacing the entire unit. There are also a huge number of problems that cannot be fixed simply by replacing the unit. This was actually done on my car at some point before I owned it, but the problem is a bad wheel sensor, not the ABS unit. I also have a weak accumulator, which is not part of the ABS assembly.
86 Lincoln Town Car, HO swap, big brakes, lots of other stuff
91 LSC SE, triple black, United Exhaust 2.25" exhaust system, ES poly front bushings
User avatar
gadget73
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 3101
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:14 pm
Location: Southern NJ

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby warwgn » Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:35 am

markvii_chick,

I'm not sure if your car is set up the same as mine... but there are multiple ways to open the trunk. For my car its goes as follows:

a button on the keyless entry remote starter
the keypad on the drivers door
a button inside the glove box
the key

I don't know f you have a remote starter with keyless entry... so I'll skip to the key pad.. punch in the car's 5 didgit code to unlock the drivers door, then within 5 seconds press "5" to open the truck. if the combo was "74205" to unlock the door, then "74205-5" will open the trunk.

also, I notice on my car.. which might be true for you, is that there seems to be cancellation for the trunk release. If the car is parked and not running, I can open the trunk with the remote starter, but the button in the glove box is cancelled out...... However, if the car is running, key in ignition, the button in the glove box works, but the trunk button on the remote starter is cancelled out.

Note: the above numbers are not the door code to my car, nor were they an attempt to guess anyone elses door codes. they were just an example, and are also a Star Trek reference.
Cheers
Doug Corrigan
1990 Bill Blass, Black w/ canavas Landau roof. Mods: 3.08 trac-lock rear end, Draw-Tite Class 1 bumper mount trailer tow hitch.
2003 Ford Explorer Limited. 4.6L V-8. 5spd Auto 3.73 rear 4x4. Class 4 hitch.
Image
User avatar
warwgn
CLUB MEMBER
 
Posts: 1239
Joined: Sun Dec 28, 2008 9:22 am
Location: Ottawa Ontario, Canada

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby oldschool1 » Thu Jan 29, 2009 5:59 am

markvii_chick wrote:...PS
Anyone here use or have used those re-manufactured 'Cardone' abs brake boosters? Are they any good? I know of two Mark VII's around town who are parked for /months/ because of this. One of which is a pretty LSC that sat for seven months because he gotten the old "replace abs system for $1,500+" excuse from his mechanic.

Lastly is there a trunk release relay? You know to get it to pop open? Push the button and it does nothing...yep fuses are good!
Gotten the window defogger to work (THANKS GUYS!), it wasn't even hooked up!
Sorry for all the questions...

Ask as many questions as you like.

To receive the best replies, place the questions in the forum that best fits the subject. This is the ELECTRONIC forum. This is best suited for: TripMinder®, audio, video, LED, capacitors, instrument clusters and controls, integrated circutry and boards, low voltage, message center, resistors, speedometers, tachometers, transistors

The BRAKE forum is for: boosters calipers, pads, rotors, fluids, lines, reservoirs, pedals

The BODY forum is for: body shell, decklids. exterior trim, fendors, frame and underbodies, hoods

Body professionals rarely read the electrical forum and vice versa, so your question may go unseen by someone who is more versed in it's answer.
User avatar
oldschool1
CLUB MEMBER
 
Posts: 8773
Joined: Fri Dec 26, 2008 10:01 pm
Location: Primos, Pennsylvania USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby markvii_chick » Thu Jan 29, 2009 2:54 pm

gadget73 wrote:The amp light doesn't always indicate the battery is actually charging. It only indicates that the voltage regulator thinks all is cool with the world. The alternator itself can be dead and that light won't be on. I've experienced it myself on my Towncar, low voltage, no amp light, no charging. The diodes were bad in the alternator, and it was less than 2 years old. I had another one go bad that charged at the proper voltage, but the amp light stayed on. The alt was 2 weeks old. My truck had one fail less than a month old, no lights or other warnings but the voltmeter would twich up and down rapidly instead of holding stable voltage.


What exactly is wrong with your ABS? There are a lot of things that can go wrong that can be fixed without replacing the entire unit. There are also a huge number of problems that cannot be fixed simply by replacing the unit. This was actually done on my car at some point before I owned it, but the problem is a bad wheel sensor, not the ABS unit. I also have a weak accumulator, which is not part of the ABS assembly.


My ABS is fine, I was referring to other cars that I know of who has issues and are parked for months now rusting away.
But whenever I would take my car to just get a simple look over (like this electrical issue for one) they'll tell me to scrap the car, its not worth it!
And I've tried every electrical car repair shop in town and willing to pay, they all refused and told me to just get rid of it. SICK I tell you.

Back to the topic (sorry about that), still waiting on my brother to swing by and take out the alternator and have it tested. Its under a lifetime warranty so more than likely it'll be swapped out some time today, he's known to swing by take out parts then take them to get checked and put the new item in within a couple of hours or less.

BUT there was one question I've been itching to ask and it's a electric related one- its in regards to the starter solenoid, which wire goes to what post on it? I'm asking this because a shop did replace this and was wondering if *that* could be an issue. It looks like a cluster of wires from hell to me, one cable goes directly to the battery and the rest sorta dangle/hang/limp all over the place. Give me til this evening and I can take a picture for you all to see this mash up of a electrician's worst nightmare...

Far as the AMP light goes, I hate seeing any warning light beaming in my face. Looks like a funky disco at night at times with a amber (suspension), red (amp) and radio lights flickering in my face!

I will say this though when I took the car for a spin it DIDN'T sputter/hesitate at all. It actually rode pretty damn decent. Now if it could just hold a charge and stay reliable to where I don't have to pester someone for a jump, I would park the Mark VIII and resume back to driving the Mark VII everyday like I did before all this stuff happened. Have no idea how many people turn heads when that car come bouncing down the highway and quickly jump out of my way!

PS
The car has key pad but the power lock actuators were taken out from the previous owner. It lights up (key pad) and that's about it.
Thanks everyone!
User avatar
markvii_chick
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:28 pm
Location: Somewhere in the woods Georgia USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby artbaileyjr » Thu Jan 29, 2009 3:44 pm

The starter solenoid is an easy one. ALL the wires connect to one side, except for the large one that goes to the starter. The battery cable and every small(er) wire PLUS the circuit breaker (small silver box) are on one side. It doesn't matter which side. ONLY the starter cable goes to the other. Of course, there is the smaller right angled rubber plug that slips over the small threaded stud.

If any of these wires are on the wrong side, you may have found many answers, right there, including your alternator issue.
In the below photo, note all the wires stacked on the right side of the solenoid. On the left (covered by the right angle connector) there is only one wire. That goes to the starter. Again, it doesnt matter which side the wires are all conected to, (left or right) as long as they are all in the same side. (The red wire runs to the battery. On your year it will be much bigger. The starter cable will also be quite large.)

Image

Hope this helps.

Art
..... It's more about the people, than it is about the cars .....

Image
... 1988 LSC 5 spd - Shifty ............... 1990 LSC SE - Trusty ............... 1991 LSC SE - Dusty ...
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/200 ... uide1.html
http://www.lincolnlandonline.com/index.html
1984 Base Turbo diesel, Silver - 1986 Bill Blass, Med Sandlewood, - 1988 LSC, Shadow Blue - 1988 LSC, Black, 5 spd -1988 Bill Blass, White - 1990 SE, Black
1991 SE, Black - 1991 LSC, Currant Red - 1991 LSC, White - 1991 SE, Currant Red. All straight, licensed, garaged and completely dependable.
User avatar
artbaileyjr
DECEASED MEMBERS
 
Posts: 6043
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 1:09 am
Location: Southeast Idaho or Southern Ca, depending on the season!

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby markvii_chick » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:50 pm

artbaileyjr wrote:The starter solenoid is an easy one. ALL the wires connect to one side, except for the large one that goes to the starter. The battery cable and every small(er) wire PLUS the circuit breaker (small silver box) are on one side. It doesn't matter which side. ONLY the starter cable goes to the other. Of course, there is the smaller right angled rubber plug that slips over the small threaded stud.

If any of these wires are on the wrong side, you may have found many answers, right there, including your alternator issue.
In the below photo, note all the wires stacked on the right side of the solenoid. On the left (covered by the right angle connector) there is only one wire. That goes to the starter. Again, it doesnt matter which side the wires are all conected to, (left or right) as long as they are all in the same side. (The red wire runs to the battery. On your year it will be much bigger. The starter cable will also be quite large.)

Image

Hope this helps.

Art


WOW thanks! Everything checks to be correct on my car just vice versa (large single black cable on the opposite side), but as you say it doesn't matter which side. There's a load a gunk the lower starter cable wire (to where it leads under the car) from a new issue my brother just discovered, lo and behold a leaky power steering pump; that'll be replaced this weekend with a new pump or hose. Can't tell just yet til he cleans the engine this weekend. That's another tale.

Update on the alternator, it was taken out and checked to be GOOD. Just for kicks the voltage regulator was checked, it came back GOOD. Battery is GOOD (went to Pep Boys on that one since that is where the battery was bought). So no issues on either of those parts. Even the guy at Pep Boys suggests its just a bad wire or connector *somewhere* but where? Starter wire looks good- aside from gunk, there was no breaks in the lines. Voltage regulator wires look good too. No crimps, no cracks, just gunk.

The wire cables connecting directly to the alternator (why the made them so thin?!), my brother looked it over and suggests before anything else is done have /that/ wiring+connectors replaced. The entire 12inch(?) section from the wide connector to the alternator.
He says it looked old/worn out.

Next question is where could I get this replaced or preferable bought brand new? There are NO good parts cars in the junk yards here. The only Mark VII is a '86 and all the wires were snatched out cut or burnt, the car is so badly picked over it's a skeleton. Is there a way I could order it online? Suggestions? Thanks again in advance!
User avatar
markvii_chick
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 250
Joined: Mon Dec 29, 2008 1:28 pm
Location: Somewhere in the woods Georgia USA

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby gadget73 » Thu Jan 29, 2009 7:56 pm

The charge wire can be replaced with ordinairy heavy guage wire. You may not be able to find the original exact piece. I would probably jsut cut it above the plug, and use a suitable crimp connector to tie in a piece of 8 ga wire. You may need to go to a napa or something to get a suitable splice for wire of that size, the ones you'll commonly find are only good to 10 ga.
86 Lincoln Town Car, HO swap, big brakes, lots of other stuff
91 LSC SE, triple black, United Exhaust 2.25" exhaust system, ES poly front bushings
User avatar
gadget73
REGISTERED USER
 
Posts: 3101
Joined: Sat Dec 27, 2008 3:14 pm
Location: Southern NJ

Re: AMP light stays on

Postby Magic Al » Thu Jan 29, 2009 8:19 pm

What Gadget said. You can just run a redundant line to the Bat terminal of your alternator. The "charge wire" is integrated into the car's wiring harness, so it can't just be easily replaced.

The original car harness uses a 12 guage (gray) fuse link. http://thelincolnmarkviiclub.org/Galler ... .sized.jpg

Did you check for continuity @ the Bat terminal of the alternator, with engine off? Using a voltmeter you should have 12 volts to ground, or exactly whatever your battery is showing to ground.
User avatar
Magic Al
 

Next

Return to Electronic

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest