Hot Rod Marks on East Coast

race tracks, track times, tuning, dynos

Re: Hot Rod Marks on East Coast

Postby artbaileyjr » Sat Jan 19, 2013 9:53 pm

Clean install, Paul. 8-)

..... It's more about the people, than it is about the cars .....

... 1988 LSC 5 spd - Shifty ............... 1990 LSC SE - Trusty ............... 1991 LSC SE - Dusty ... ... uide1.html
1984 Base Turbo diesel, Silver - 1986 Bill Blass, Med Sandlewood, - 1988 LSC, Shadow Blue - 1988 LSC, Black, 5 spd -1988 Bill Blass, White - 1990 SE, Black
1991 SE, Black - 1991 LSC, Currant Red - 1991 LSC, White - 1991 SE, Currant Red. All straight, licensed, garaged and completely dependable.
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Re: Hot Rod Marks on East Coast

Postby Dallas90LSC » Sun Jan 20, 2013 1:43 am

pkv88mkvii wrote:
Dallas90LSC wrote:
pkv88mkvii wrote:You would be surprised at how little. The front suspension is stock. I'm sending a Mark strut to Lakewood to see if they have something in a 90/10 that I can use. I'd have to convert to Mustang spring suspension to use a Mustang drag strut and I'm not giving up my air ride. The air suspension controller is gone and I have a suspension "center" in the trunk with 4 gauges, 4 switches, and 4 schraeder valves. I turn on the solenoid to a particular air bag and set the pressure where I want it. I air the front up at the track for a little better weight transfer and weight jack the RR so the car launches straight. In the rear I boxed all the control arms and put in poly bushings. I modified Mustang traction bars and moved them so the snubber hits a plate right under the frame rail. I need a panhard, because the rear wiggles around a little, but I haven't decided on a design yet that's strong enough. Maybe a watts linkage. The 8 point bar is one of the keys. It ties into the frame connectors I fabbed which are a lot stronger than the ones you can buy from say MM. Before the cage (when the car was running over 11.49 and I didn't need it) I was breaking windshields. On 295 M/T ET street radials the car pulls both front tires evenly about 6" and usually hooks without a squeak and a 1.57 60' time. I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things, but that's the basics. The car is over 4000# with all accesories still working including those 100+ # leather Blass couch front seats. I keep saying I'm going to lose them and gain 2 tenths, but my friend just tells me to keep adding horsepower. I figure we're close to 700. I still drive the car around a little too. Not so much anymore at 5 mpg and $8/gal., lol, but it's fun.

I know many resist the poly bushings, but if you would ditch the rubber lower front bushings and install some ES poly bushings you would lose a shiteload of the rear sway. The factory bushing was made for comfort, not performance.
I've had all poly in the rear -except for the "ears" on the differential- for several years and I believe it is a poor man's answer to a panhard bar. There is VERY LITTLE give back there.
While I don't have as much HP as you, I do drive it hard. I've autocrossed as well as have had it on Hallett (roadracing).

The rear is all ES poly's. The car leaves pretty hard though and you can see by the marks from the traction bar snubbers how much the rear wiggles around.

Well, then, you DO need more structure back there.
Be safe...if you can.
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