diesel coolant loss

Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby artbaileyjr » Sun Aug 07, 2011 5:08 pm

Welcome 84turbodiesel.
The only thing that would come to mind immediately would be the water pump. Those stupid things can leak, but they leak the coolant right on top of the crankshaft so it only throws coolant when it's running. As soon as you shut it down, it wants to suck coolant in from the reservoir and you can't tell where it's leaking from.

One of my gasoline Mark VII's was loosing coolant recently, and for the life of me, I couldn't figure out where, Everything looked completely dry. After my wife had it to town for some grocery shopping, I covered every inch of the underside of the car with cardboard. I looked at it in the morning.... NOTHING!!! Absolutely NOTHING! When I started the car is when I saw a spray of coolant so the water pump was promptly replaced. It was only then that you could see that it had been leaking for some time.

On the TurboDiesel, it's pretty difficult to see, much less reach anything on the front of the engine, but that would be the first place I'd look. The other thing is the upper radiator hose. That sucker is 45 feet long! :shock:

Let us know what you find as there are a very few of us that actually own one of these rare cars. Many folks have never even SEEN one!

Also, drop by the "Welcome Wagon" and introduce yourself if you get the chance. We'd love to know more about you and your car.

Take care,
Art
..... It's more about the people, than it is about the cars .....

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... 1988 LSC 5 spd - Shifty ............... 1990 LSC SE - Trusty ............... 1991 LSC SE - Dusty ...
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/200 ... uide1.html
http://www.lincolnlandonline.com/index.html
1984 Base Turbo diesel, Silver - 1986 Bill Blass, Med Sandlewood, - 1988 LSC, Shadow Blue - 1988 LSC, Black, 5 spd -1988 Bill Blass, White - 1990 SE, Black
1991 SE, Black - 1991 LSC, Currant Red - 1991 LSC, White - 1991 SE, Currant Red. All straight, licensed, garaged and completely dependable.
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby oldschool1 » Sun Aug 07, 2011 8:54 pm

ImageImageImage

Thank you for the resources.

I think that you have blockage issues. Fluoride build up is murder on our TDs and heat is almost instant death. Though ANY coolant loss is unacceptable, your coolant loss is minimal and may be going out via the exhaust. Our heads are notorious for warping and cracking.

Select User Control Panel up top and update your location and the like.

Welcome back home.
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby oldschool1 » Sun Aug 07, 2011 9:46 pm

That depends on who you talk to.
Many have had good results with coolant system flush products.
Many have had good results with replacing the radiator.
Many have had good results with replacing the water pump.
I've done all three with good results ;)
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby oldschool1 » Tue Aug 09, 2011 2:36 pm

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You are welcome.

Fluoride is added to America's domestic drinking water.

After years of "topping off" our coolant systems from the tap, fluoride deposits build up inside our radiators. The one shown above if from a 1990 gas burner but the results are the same. There are a hand full of other deposits in the system but fluoride is the one that I can easily address by using bottled water from the market at like a dollar a gallon.
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby artbaileyjr » Wed Aug 10, 2011 10:38 pm

So... ahhhh ... Oldschool,
I was not aware of the fact that fluoride is at least one of the culprits that causes the calcium type buildup inside of our cooling systems

~AND~

Knowing that you work with water chilling & heat exchanging equipment as a profession, where you can't possibly buy water at the local grocery store; how do you control fluoride buildup in large systems?
I mean, I can see where you probably filter any water added to your systems, but is there a particular chemical that is commercially used to remove buildup when you do major system maintenance. Is it something that could be applicable to our cars when we do cooling system maintenance?

I'm sure that it's not 55 gallon drums of Prestone "Fast Flush".

I have absolutely NO confidence in the cooling system cleaners that are available to the consumer. There are no good cleaners left on the market today. For example... I used to use a mild solution muriatic acid and water, flushed with baking soda and water as a neutralizer. That's not real practical in this day and age, but the inside of our copper radiators used to shine like a dime! (I can only imagine what it would do to aluminum! :shock: )

Any ideas?

Art
..... It's more about the people, than it is about the cars .....

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... 1988 LSC 5 spd - Shifty ............... 1990 LSC SE - Trusty ............... 1991 LSC SE - Dusty ...
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/200 ... uide1.html
http://www.lincolnlandonline.com/index.html
1984 Base Turbo diesel, Silver - 1986 Bill Blass, Med Sandlewood, - 1988 LSC, Shadow Blue - 1988 LSC, Black, 5 spd -1988 Bill Blass, White - 1990 SE, Black
1991 SE, Black - 1991 LSC, Currant Red - 1991 LSC, White - 1991 SE, Currant Red. All straight, licensed, garaged and completely dependable.
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby oldschool1 » Thu Aug 11, 2011 7:47 pm

hehehe, Yeah. I could write a small book.

Image

If you ask five mechanics how to do this, you'll get ten different answers.

The short answer is to test, remove/replace/maintain, repeat as needed.

Test - On a cool engine, the test point should be the lowest accessible point on the system like the radiator drain or lower hose. Put a pint or more of the engine's coolant in a glass jar. Let it sit for ten minutes. The coolant should feel slick but not oily when rubbed between your thumb and forefinger. If it feels like water then it was WAY to thin. If it feels like oil AND is darker than Grass Green, then it's contaminated. If there are any visible solids or partially dissolved solids then a strong flush is recommended.
Remove - ANTIFREEZE, ETHYLENE GLYCOL, ENGINE COOLANT, THE GREEN OR YELLOW SMELLY STUFF, IS DEADLY TO PETS. PLEASE DISPOSE OF IT PROPERLY. On a cool engine, place a three gallon receptacle with a WIDE opening, under the lower radiator-to-hose connection. Loosen the clamp. Loosen the hose until coolant begins to drip. SLOWLY separate the hose from the radiator until you have a slow and controllable stream of fluid. Remove the radiator cap. Empty the system as much as possible. System capacity is 14.1 quarts. You ~might~ remove three gallons.
Replace - Reconnect the hose. Add a 50/50 mix of bottled water and coolant until the radiator is full. Add coolant to the overflow reservoir up to the COLD mark. Start the engine. Refill the radiator as needed. Replace the cap.
Maintain - Flush the system each year with an over the counter radiator flush from AutoPepZone.
WARNING: most systems that have not received scheduled maintenance have interior build up. This build up often seals external leaks. PROPER FLUSHING WILL REMOVE BUILD UP FROM WITHIN THE COOLING SYSTEM AND WILL ALSO REMOVE BUILD UP FROM CLOGGED LEAKS. Flushing may reveal previously clogged leaks. Heater cores should be bypassed with a male to male connector and flushed SEPARATELY from our engines. Thoroughly corroded systems need the thermostat removed for proper flushing. Annual flushing can be done using only a screw driver to remove the lower hose.

No. This wasn't the long answer. The long answer is http://www.polarislabs.com/coolant-analysis.php This actually applies to any cooling system of any size. Samples can be as small as 4 ounces. Unless you've installed a five thousand dollar crate engine and a six hundred dollar radiator, you won't need to use a five hundred dollar test kit. The $5.00 clear plastic testers only accurately test for temperature protection and should only be used as a guide.

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DIRECTIONS
1. Allow engine to cool. Drain system. Close drain.
2. Add entire contents of bottle and refill system with water. Reinstall cap.
3. After engine reaches normal operating temperature, run engine for 10 minutes with heater on and air conditioner off.
4. Allow engine to cool. Flush cooling system and reservoir until water runs clear.
5. Close drain. Refill cooling system and reservoir with manufacturer’s recommended antifreeze / water mixture.
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby artbaileyjr » Sun Aug 21, 2011 11:15 pm

Hi Don.
Actually, there are a few of us that own these things. I'm pretty good with the gas burning version, but unless it's a tractor, I'm learning along with you and others about the turbo-diesel.

I've had mine for less than a year and by now, I had intended to be able to contribute more than I have. I have a complete spare drive train to dismantle, photograph, document and of course, the running car itself to work with, however, as often times happen, everything went upside down for me, and my plans were pushed back a year or more. (Loss of a parent... caring for the other)

Soooo..... Please don't think that your words are unread. I am reading intently, as are others; learning from your experiences as hopefully we will contribute to you as well, in good time.

Besides... these things sound like BMW's and smell like tractors! :lol: :D

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Image

Art :D
..... It's more about the people, than it is about the cars .....

Image
... 1988 LSC 5 spd - Shifty ............... 1990 LSC SE - Trusty ............... 1991 LSC SE - Dusty ...
http://www.hemmings.com/mus/stories/200 ... uide1.html
http://www.lincolnlandonline.com/index.html
1984 Base Turbo diesel, Silver - 1986 Bill Blass, Med Sandlewood, - 1988 LSC, Shadow Blue - 1988 LSC, Black, 5 spd -1988 Bill Blass, White - 1990 SE, Black
1991 SE, Black - 1991 LSC, Currant Red - 1991 LSC, White - 1991 SE, Currant Red. All straight, licensed, garaged and completely dependable.
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby 2manymarks » Tue Sep 13, 2011 9:19 pm

1984turbodiesel wrote:I have my car back from the shop, they were unable to locate a leak. I asked them not to spend anymore time on it. My mech buddy working there is going to take it home and figure it out. He's a lot cheaper.
I'm surprised that there are only two diesel lincoln owners responding.
Do you know how many lincoln diesel owners ther are on this site?

I'll report back with my results.

thanks
Dan


I'll log in as another 84td owner. It is my second one and I have only had it since winter. The first one was sold and is currently for sale in our classifieds by it's current owner. Mine is currently experiencing some steering problems that I haven't been able to get under and look at.

Jerry
As of April2013, 10Mark VII's, 2licensed for the road:
1989 Current Red c/c (9G) mostly stock81k
1989 Current Red c/c (9G) mostly stock-totalled but driving124k
1989 Light Titanium c/c (11) BillBlass-stock. miles unk
1989 Medium Sandalwood (62) Mass air+ 111k FOR SALE $1500.
1986 Bill Blass (8T)stock 75k miles
1986 Black beast w/carbed393++, 5spd 375hp PROJ FOR SALE $2500. (GTC kit available)
1984 TD Base model,Platinum(1Q),131k+ FOR SALE $1800.
Parts cars: 88LSC,89BB, 90LSC-TLZ5spd(complete conversion w/extras 4SALE)
2001 Toyota Tundra 4.7L, Maroon, 158K
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby oldschool1 » Thu Sep 15, 2011 4:43 am

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My 1984 Lincoln Continental Mark VII Gianni Versace Turbo Diesel starts, runs, and stops properly but is just plain butt ugly in the cosmetics department as it needs an new interior.

You have just heard from
Art Bailey Jr - artbaileyjr
Jerry Monohan - 2manymarks
John Dancy - oldschool1
The three active Lincoln Continental Mark VII TD owners on this forum are GINGERLY maintaining what we have and learning and sharing EVERYTHING as we go. Jerry has had two or three. I've had two and a half and Art has had one, but has more hands on than Jerry and I.

Patience. We'll get through this together 8-)
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby CDW6212R » Thu Sep 15, 2011 3:49 pm

I've only seen one that my friend had in the 90's. He bought it for some body parts mainly, and we gutted the rest down to the tiniest bolts, clips etc.

He may still have an odd part or two besides the engine. What parts are the most unique or tough to find, I'll ask him if any of it was stored away?
Don
1991 Red Special Edition, my 2nd SE, dead paint, DWS 255/45/17's on 95 Cobra wheels, and soon; DVD/Navi/backup camera, OBDII and the 347.
98 Mountaineer with 255/55/18's, big sway bars, custom brakes. Soon to be A4WD with XP8 bumpers and wing.

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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby oldschool1 » Thu Sep 15, 2011 6:25 pm

Seriously, anything attached to the drive train.

Outside of the engine bay, it's really just another 1984 Mark VII with a funny filler neck opening, drive train, and an extra idiot light telling us to wait :)
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby 2manymarks » Sat Sep 17, 2011 7:47 am

CDW6212R wrote:I've only seen one that my friend had in the 90's. He bought it for some body parts mainly, and we gutted the rest down to the tiniest bolts, clips etc.

He may still have an odd part or two besides the engine. What parts are the most unique or tough to find, I'll ask him if any of it was stored away?


Parts worth keeping/having for the TD: an aluminum radiator with an additional electric fan for cooling when the AC is running; an Injector pump; alternator with pulleys; OEM fuel filter/water separator; power steering is propably unique, but I haven't any experience with it and of course the turbo itself. There's probably much more, but fortunately I haven't encountered them yet.
As of April2013, 10Mark VII's, 2licensed for the road:
1989 Current Red c/c (9G) mostly stock81k
1989 Current Red c/c (9G) mostly stock-totalled but driving124k
1989 Light Titanium c/c (11) BillBlass-stock. miles unk
1989 Medium Sandalwood (62) Mass air+ 111k FOR SALE $1500.
1986 Bill Blass (8T)stock 75k miles
1986 Black beast w/carbed393++, 5spd 375hp PROJ FOR SALE $2500. (GTC kit available)
1984 TD Base model,Platinum(1Q),131k+ FOR SALE $1800.
Parts cars: 88LSC,89BB, 90LSC-TLZ5spd(complete conversion w/extras 4SALE)
2001 Toyota Tundra 4.7L, Maroon, 158K
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Re: diesel coolant loss

Postby Traveler » Mon Oct 03, 2011 10:45 am

Your head gasket is leaking.

I have had 3 mark VII's now and a spare engine. 170K+ miles and you are just counting down to your head gasket leaking. Sooner if you overheat the engine. Running a external temp gauge is actually pretty important if this is a car you need to depend on.

Typical signs are as you describe. Coolant loss, no visible signs. Not a big loss, just seems like you have to top it off every time you check it.

Keep running it too long and you will damage the head beyond repair.

You can try to tighten the head bolts, it sounds like the 524td guys have had some luck doing that.
Just pull the valve cover and give them another 1/4 turn.
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